Berkeley has Alice Waters.
Oceanside has Roberto Alcocer.
Like these chef legends who put their hometowns on the culinary map, so too did Daniel Castillo, pitmaster and cofounder of Heritage Barbecue, which celebrated its brick-and-mortar’s three-year anniversary on Aug. 8. Castillo and his business partner and wife, Brenda Castillo, helped turn San Juan Capistrano, once primarily known for its fork-winged birds and a centuries-old Mission, into the most important dining destination in South County.
To say Castillo changed the landscape of food in Orange County, while accurate, would be an understatement. Since opening in the thick of the pandemic up until today, Heritage Barbecue plays host to the kinds of queued-up crowds usually seen outside extolled eateries in metropolises like Los Angeles and New York City.
After years of hauling a mobile smoker to parking lots of breweries for his pop-up, Castillo developed a cult following for his Texas- and California-style brisket and beef and pork ribs. However, few could have predicted the deluge of acclaim, both from patrons and critics, that would hit Heritage within a year of opening its first eatery in San Juan Capistrano, on grounds made fertile by numerous taquerias. (If you want to get your paws on the 12- to 14-hour smoked meats at Heritage, you will need to arrive early and plan on waiting in line.)
Since opening in 2020, Heritage, which also opened an Oceanside location in January, nabbed numerous accolades, including restaurant of year by the Orange County Register, a Bib Gourmand restaurant in Michelin’s California Guide, listed among the 101 best places to eat according to the Los Angeles Times, shout-outs from L.A. Taco and Food and Wine, and more.
I asked a handful of esteemed food writers and a prominent chef and restaurateur to opine about Heritage Barbecue’s impact. They didn’t hold back:
Gustavo Arellano (columnist, Los Angeles Times): “Heritage BBQ is already one of the most important restaurants in O.C. culinary history. They have shown the world our chefs are as deserving of national acclaim as much as the LAs and San Franciscos of California.”
Stephanie Breijo (food reporter, Los Angeles Times): “Imagine my surprise learning that the taqueria I’d stopped at countless times throughout my childhood suddenly transformed into some of the best barbecue in the country. With family in both L.A. and San Diego, I’d dropped by that corner for years as a kind of halfway mark between the two, breaking up the drive — now, it’s its own destination. I pile friends and family into the car for a taste of Heritage: the succulent slabs of brisket, the fall-off-the-dinosaur-bone beef ribs, the cavatappi sticky with cheese sauce; the meaty, cotija-topped brisket beans all paired with local beer on the patio. Don’t get me started on the wildly inventive special menus for Oktoberfest, Mardi Gras and the like.
It’s been a real delight to watch the restaurant evolve over the last three years — including the introduction of the Oceanside spot — and once they hired Lennon Gunter, their own in-house butcher, I knew it was game over: Good luck to anyone trying to outshine Gunter’s phenomenal smoked sausages, with traditional and off-the-walls flavors that rotate constantly and never miss. Danny Castillo and his crew have created something truly special. It’s not just a taste of Texas-style barbecue, it’s its own microcosm of local and national flavor.”
Farley Elliott (senior editor, Eater LA): “Heritage Barbecue isn’t just interested in cooking some of California’s best barbecue — they do — they’re also determined to change the landscape for barbecue for every other pitmaster in the state. The playbook that the Castillos have built for navigating offset smoker approvals for commercial restaurant use is unbelievable, and has single-handedly helped to put California’s best barbecue spots on par with Texas, Kansas City, and anywhere else. If you’ve got great modern barbecue in your city right now, there’s no doubt that you have, at least in part, Heritage to thank.”
Carlos and Emilie Salgado (executive chef/owners, Taco María): “It would be enough that the barbecue is excellent, dynamic and delicious. But Daniel and Brenda, and their team, achieve that same excellence in so many other aspects: in hospitality — the way they welcome us all to sit beside their fire; in creativity — by the excitement they elicit with their singular style of BBQ; and in leadership, as through the community, mentorship and sense of belonging which they cultivate. Heritage is where we bring our family for celebrations, and friends visiting from out of town, to show them our best.”
Jenn Tanaka (food writer, Eater LA and OC Register): “Before Heritage Barbecue opened its doors in San Juan Capistrano, Daniel and Brenda Castillo along with executive chef Nick Echaore hosted drive-thru meal giveaways for out-of-work hospitality and food service workers. The act of goodwill boosted the community and when Heritage Barbecue finally opened to the public, the slow-cooked brisket solidified its position as one of best places to eat in OC.”
Laura Tejeda (writer, L.A. Taco): “Heritage Barbecue means community. Danny and Brenda have created familial and warm spaces for all generations to enjoy amazing food. It’s beautiful to see them create and amplify dishes that encompass and celebrate not only Latinos but so many other communities. I really appreciate their glow-up story, from backyard cooks to serving the masses and people who travel far and wide to visit.”
On Sunday, Sept. 3, Heritage Barbecue will host a three-year anniversary celebration that will include a bevy of collaborations with area favorites, past and present, like a brisket birria burrito from Burritos La Palma and a smoked ramen burger from much-missed Ramen Shack. In anticipation of this hallmark, I spoke with Castillo about his institution’s success, culinary inspirations, and where (other than Heritage, of course) to go for a choice meal.
“Barbecue had been overlooked for so long and misused for so long,” he says regarding the state of barbecue in Orange County before Heritage. “It really is a craft; it’s an art.” The pitmaster goes on to say that running a good — nay, great — barbecue spot is as hard if not harder than operating a fine-dining restaurant. “It’s a marathon, you know? Cooking quality proteins for 12 to 14 hours at a time, you have to convince people why they should pay for it.” And pay they do without hesitation as the de rigeur lines at Heritage Barbecue can attest. “From the beginning, we only worked with meat purveyors that practice sustainability while ethically raising meats.”
Castillo also notes his culinary community (there are a slew of sundry eateries within a two- to three-block radius) that helps him out, like FKN Bread, located across the street, which provides Heritage with the cornbread ideal of soaking up juices your mouth may have missed. Heritage also works with the nearby Ecology Center for sourcing its produce.
When asked about gastronomic inspiration, Castillo points north of San Juan Capistrano. “Brenda and I, we spent so much time growing up in Orange County in the areas of Garden Grove and Little Saigon, these are the areas we consider to be the real Orange County — and the only real true cuisine of Orange County,” he says. “We take a lot of inspiration from Asian areas. We’re talking about mom-and-pop places, not fine-dining establishments, where you can get phở or a place like Brodard where you can get the best spring rolls.” He goes on to say that although Heritage’s menu leans into styles of Texas and California barbecues, “our menu is all over the place; we draw inspiration from Orange County itself.”
As for where else one can eat in Orange County, “If you want an amazing meal, I always say go to Westminster, go to one of the shopping centers with around 50 places to eat. It’ll blow your mind.” And when it comes to eating at Heritage, Castillo says the more the merrier. “If you come to Heritage by yourself, it’s not going to be as enjoyable alone compared to coming with your friends or family members.” After all, you’ll want to share the flavor-jammed joy with loved ones. “It’s going to blow your mind,” he says. “Your eyes will be in heaven.”
This Sunday’s birthday bash promises to be a packed event. Heritage will celebrate with its famous fare as well as food from friends like Burritos La Palma, Irenia, RIIP Pizzeria, Harper BBQ, and Ramen Burger. The event starts at 11 a.m. and it would be wise to come early. (No, even earlier than you’re thinking.) Menu items will sell out fast. Also of note, parking will be hard to get; attendees who can swing it should take the train to the San Juan Capistrano train station, which is only three blocks from Heritage Barbecue.
If you can’t make it, Heritage Barbecue is open Wednesdays through Sundays from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. (may close early if barbecue sells out).
Find it: 31721 Camino Capistrano (at Ortega Hwy), San Juan Capistrano
